Chili: Habanada

Beschreibung:

All the floral sweetness of the famous habanero, minus the burn. 100 days to maturity; 70 days for green peppers. Future breeder Michael Mazourek was studying at Cornell University in 2001 when he received a mysterious packet of seeds from researchers in New Mexico. The seeds were related to habanero peppers, a pepper famous for its intense burn. The twist? These particular peppers were heatless—the result of a natural mutation in the field. And they soon became the focus of Michael’s (surprisingly delicious) doctoral research. Through years of crossing, selection and DNA analysis, Michael discovered how to limit the habanero’s heat while preserving its floral and melon-like flavors. The resulting “Habanada” is aromatic with lingering sweetness, and it defies everything we’ve come to expect from a pepper. You can eat them green and unripe for a potent hit of aroma, or savor the habanadas’ full potential as a bright orange flavor bomb. GROWING Days to Maturity 100 days; 70 days for green peppers Appearance — 2-3” bright orange fruit, longer and more tapered than a traditional habanero Field Notes — Soil Requirements: Fertile, well-drained soils with an optimal pH of 6.5. Little to no additional fertilization needed. Avoid high nitrogen prior to flowering, as it will delay fruiting. Phosphorus and calcium will boost yields and prevent blossom end rot. — Support required: Provide trellising or other support to increase yield and ease of harvest. — Row Covers: Row cover young plants. Remove row covers when temperatures go above 85˚F to prevent damage to plants. Monitor for aphids. Spacing After Transplanting — Plant Spacing: 15” single row; 18-24” double row — Row Spacing: 24-36” Transplanting — Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before transplanting. Sow seeds ¼” deep in trays or shallow flats, 4 seeds per inch. — Germinate with heat mat for 10+ days, alternating 82˚F for 8 hours and 90˚F for 16 hours. — 10-15 days to emergence. — At true leaf stage (4 weeks), transplant (bump up) to 2”-cell flats or 4” pots. — Move transplants outdoors to harden off gradually for 3-5 days, protecting seedlings from wind, strong sun, hard rain and cold. — Transplant 2-4 weeks after last frost, when soil temperatures reach at least 70˚F. Direct Seeding Not recommended. Pest + Disease Info — Insect Pests: Climbing cutworms, tarnished plant bugs, aphids, flea beetles. Control insect pests with organic insecticide such as pyrethrin, spinosad, soaps, etc. as appropriate. — Diseases: Use best management practices such as drip irrigation and moisture management, crop rotation, removal of post-harvest crop debris and proper air circulation to prevent common pepper diseases such as phytopthora and bacterial spot. Harvest Fruits can be harvested green, but to reach Habanada’s flavor potential, harvest when the 2-3” fruit turn orange. Storage Habanadas will store 1-2 weeks maintaining flavor and crispness. Store whole and dry under plastic in a refrigerated environment.

Herkunft:

Chili: Habanada

Aussaat:

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Anzucht / Aussaat

Ernte

Bedingungen:

Lichtbedarf
hoch
Nährstoffbedarf
hoch
Wasserbedarf
sehr feucht
Ausbreitung
Pflanzabstand
30 cm
Reihenabstand
30 cm
Saattiefe
1 cm

Anbautipps:

Chili solltest du in nährstoffreicher Erde an einem sonnigen Standort anbauen. Für eine reichhaltige Ernte sollte die erste Blüte (Terminalknospe/'Königsblüte') herausgebrochen werden. Dies fördert die Blüten- und Fruchtbildung an den Seitentrieben. Ziehe die Pflanzen mit 3-4 Trieben und entferne die übrigen Triebe. In Mitteleuropa ist der Anbau i.d.R. einjährig, der höchste Ertrag wird allerdings erst 2-3 Jahre nach der Pflanzung erzielt. Dafür muss die Pflanze im Haus überwintert werden. Die Ernte der Früchte erfolgt sorten- und witterungsabhängig von Juli bis September.

Krankheiten:

Grauschimmel
Rotfleckenkrankheit
Schwarzfleckenkrankheit
Dürrfleckenkrankheit
Blütenendfäule

Schädlinge:

Gute Nachbarn:

Schlechte Nachbarn:

Kartoffel

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